Daffodils bloom in March-April and are among the first flowers to bloom in this country. Along with snowdrops, daffodils are some of our most beloved signs of spring. In addition, daffodils are a symbol of friendship and in some countries (including Denmark) also Easter.
There is no official figure for the number of species of daffodils, but some experts believe there are as few as 26 and others as many as 60. In addition, there are around 6,000 varieties and at least 13,000 hybrids.
Characteristics of the daffodil
- Daffodils are perennials that typically grow in clusters
- Although daffodils are yellow and/or white (or colors in between)
- The flower consists of 3 sepals and 3 petals that are fused together (this part is also called the “collar”) and a trumpet-shaped corolla tube
- The collar is often lighter in color than the corolla tube
- The fruits of the flower are seed capsules that have a triangular shape
- The flower stalk is leafless and bears 1-20 flowers
- All parts of the plant are toxic (contains lectin) and the sap can cause skin irritation
- Suitable as cut flowers
Cultivation and care
Read more about what to look out for when buying daffodil bulbs here.
Soil conditions
The soil in which the daffodils will grow should be
- Well-drained
- Rich in organic matter (e.g. compost)
- Neutral (daffodils can tolerate slightly acidic soil, as well as slightly alkaline soil – some gardeners prefer the slightly acidic, low-calcium soil, while others prefer the slightly alkaline, calcareous soil)
Planting
- Place the bulb at least 2 times as deep in the soil as the height of the bulb (i.e. if the bulb is 5 cm high, it should be placed at least 10 cm into the soil)
- Daffodil bulbs should be planted deeper in sandy soil than in clay soil
- Bulbs should be planted in the fall
- It can help to spray a little flower fertilizer in the planting hole when planting the bulbs
- Daffodils can be quite dense, but it is recommended to plant them 12-18 cm apart
Fertilizer
- Fertilizers high in nitrogen should not be used around daffodils
- You can use fertilizers rich in potash for daffodils
Care of daffodils
- Daffodils should be in full sun or partial shade
- Daffodils require a lot of water while they are growing (during the growth period)
- After flowering they should be kept warm and dry
- Green leaves should not be removed after flowering, but withered flowers should be removed
- Winter cover is recommended for daffodils: it protects against cold, dry winds and prevents evaporation, all of which help to retain moisture in the soil
- Some daffodils may require deadheading; this is especially true if there are many flowers on the single stem (if the stem has difficulty carrying the flowers)
Propagation and transplanting
- Daffodil bulbs should be divided every 5 to 10 years (preferably at the beginning of summer after the plant has wilted)
- Division is done by removing the side bulbs and placing them 12-18 cm into the soil
- Otherwise, you should only transplant or divide if flowering deteriorates and too many leaves appear
- It is recommended to replant immediately before the top withers completely
Threats
Rodents, deer and the like generally dislike the taste of daffodil bulbs (or other plant parts), so daffodils are naturally protected from these animals. Daffodil threats include:
- Large narcissus flies (Merodon equestris – belongs to the hoverfly family [Syrphidae])
- Narcissus fly larvae
- Narcissus glass mites (Steneotarsonemus laticeps – belongs to the family Tarsonemidae)
- Other onion mites
- Roundworms/nematodes/narcisole (Nematoda)
- Slugs and snails
- Viruses
- Gray mold
- Other fungal diseases
When daffodils are attacked by the above, this will cause symptoms such as stunted growth, reduced flowering, dark spots on the leaves etc; daffodils will generally appear sick or infected if they are.
If you have diseased plants, you should dig up their bulbs and discard or burn the bulbs as well as the plants to avoid infection (if you discard the plants, put them in the trash – not in the compost). To prevent disease, check the condition of your onions thoroughly and make sure you only choose bulbs that:
- Have no damage
- Have no signs of fungus or other diseases
- Do not have black or brown onion scales